Thursday, May 26, 2016

Ginger Jeans: This Is How a Habit Forms

I ask: is there anything quite as soul crushing as sewing something that you think looks surprisingly good on - better than expected even - and then seeing the results of your blog photo shoot and feeling like you really should have burned said garment in a fire? That's sort of my experience with my first pair of  Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans.

I loved them until I saw photos. It probably doesn't help my attitude that my bra is peeking out. What can I say... there are days when I'm not quite so put together. These are the only pics I found palatable out of 2 rounds of shooting. (Note to self: never ever take photos when you are downhill from your photographer. The angle will make you look half as tall and, thus, much wider.) 

Anyway, these are view A, the low rise, straight leg Gingers. I LOVED sewing them. I started these thinking that they'd be at best a wearable muslin, but the fit is pretty fantastic almost right out of the envelope. I've already worn them a number of times.

These are sewn in a black stretch "denim" that was given to me by my sister in a moving purge. Honestly, I'm not strong in my conviction that this is actually denim, which is why I'm calling it "denim," if you get my drift. It's a stretch twill but it is fairy light weight with a less prominent weave than any pair of jeans in my closet. I think this is partly to blame for my "burn it in a fire" sentiment. They are comfy on and I thought they looked pretty darn good in the mirror, but on camera, the fabric seems to cling in a most unflattering way because of it's thinness.

I made a few simple changes to the pattern on this version - I added 2" to the length and transitioned from a size 14 at the hip to a 10 at the waist. But there are a few additional fitting changes to make so the pattern is perfect on my next version. Oh yes, there will be a next!

First, I scooped out the back crotch curve just a little while I was sewing it. I'm waffling about whether this was necessary, but a slight bit more room in front crotch would be an improvement. So I will lengthen the front crotch by 1/4" to 3/8" at most and perhaps not incorporate the back scooping into the final pattern.

Next, I need more length. These jeans are ok with flats, but anything with a heel and they look a bit silly. I also need a bit more calf room, since they are a bit snug on my "athletic" calves, which makes them ride up at the knee.

Lastly, although I know that denim relaxes with wear, I was not prepared for quite how much this fabric would relax, particularly at the waist. So, I will make things a little more snug throughout and really snug up the waist in future versions. Honestly, I think the fabric is the main culprit in my negative feelings about these jeans.

The only other change that I would make is that I would use my TNT method for zip flies for any future jeans. I think that the Ginger pattern and sew along instructions are terrific for a very simple and reliable zipper fly insertion, but I just love the method Kenneth King demonstrates in his Craftsy Jeanius class. I find it slightly more sturdy and I like that there is a little more of an overlap. That said, this is personal preference and you will have very good success if you follow the steps in the Ginger pattern.

One thing that I will second that Heather addresses during her sew along is that pocket placement is SO much more important to how good the back side of these jeans look than you might think. I was very glad that I didn't just sew on the pockets, and instead played around with the placement, sewing them on last. I didn't nail it 100%, but I hope to in the next version.

I really had fun sewing up jeans. Would you believe that I have several other pairs planned in my head - 2 flares and another pair of skinnies. What can I say? This is apparently my year for repeats and for jeans. When I finished these, I almost immediately bought all the other jeans patterns out there. So I can sew jeans in every style!

As always, I had fun picking out the hardware. Aren't my star rivets cute? And they were easy to set in with a hammer.

Anyway, this is a terrific pattern that I'll be using many times over, despite my initial fabric misgivings.  

Thursday, May 19, 2016

The Cheaters Guide to #MMMay16

Me Made May 2016 has passed the half-way mark and the adorable outfits photographed in creative and scenic vistas at the beginning of the month are slowly but surely giving way to bleary office bathroom selfies. So, it seems like the right time to jump into the fray.

I really admire those of you who pull together thoughtful me made outfits each day and who remember to snap a cute photo before your 17-month-old hugs you after eating blueberries. However, this post is not for you. This post is for those of you who are unhappily wearing "wearable" muslins that really didn't work out and shouldn't be worn, frou frou party dresses that you are trying to dress down so they look work appropriate, or the same ill fitting me made cardigan that doesn't match anything else in your wardrobe for the third time this week despite its blueberry stain, which you tell yourself is in an inconspicuous location. It isn't. For all of you, this is my magnum opus of cheatery for that most wonderful month of the year. It may not help you for this year, but with a little sewing, it could revolutionize MMMay17 for you in 5 simple steps.

Cheater's rule #1:  sew a coat or jacket. If, like me, you have a weather appropriate jacket and a commute, you can wear it most days and call yourself a winner. Unlike a cardi, it won't stink after three weeks of near-constant wear need as frequent cleaning since you won't be wearing it all day. Plus, jackets are impressive. Even more so if it is leather, because non-sewist heads practically explode on learning that you actually sewed leather. Win.

Bonus cheat for all you knitters: scarves and shawls. Double down and finally put all those beginner projects to good use.

Cheater's Rule #2: Sew a bathrobe or kimono. Why limit MMMay to daytime hours? Ten minutes of swanning around your boudour in a silk bathrobe and your MMMay daily goal is met before you've even put shoes on or finished your coffee. Big win.

Winning at MMMay while nursing. 

Bonus: you will feel like you are swathed in luxury even if your pajamas are so decrepit that a house elf would turn up their nose.

Cheater's Rule #3: Socks and undies
Just because your me made isn't obvious or for public consumption doesn't mean that you don't win. You do. Every time you pick a wedgie or adjust a slouchy sock remind yourself that you are secretly #winningallday.

Maybe don't post photos of you in your undies unless you want that sort of attention.

I walk all over my me mades on an almost daily basis

Bonus cheat: no one will be the wiser if you are indeed actually cheating and not wearing me made underoos. Shame on you. But your secret is safe with me.

Cheater's Rule #4:  Accessorize
Look at any "outfit" in a magazine or posted on Pinterest and you'll see that accessories are included. So I ask: why exclude accessories from MMMay? Did you sew a purse or tote bag or string a few beads on a necklace? If yes, you win.

Just a few of the clutches and bags I've made.

My very first sewing project ever was a tissue pack cover. Why am I telling you this?


Because every time I sneeze in May, I win. And May is allergy season. #Boom
Bonus cheat for all you moms: wear your child. After all, you made them practically from nothing. They are the ultimate me made accessory. Double bonus if you actually made that ring sling or carrier. Again, this is something you can achieve daily without having to repeat outfits.

Taco was so small when I made this ring sling!

Cheater's Rule #5: The MMMay proxy.
Is your spouse, child or any other loved one, liked one or one-who-annoys-you-but-you-made-something-for-anyway wearing something you made today? I call it a win if someone, somewhere is wearing something made by you.  If you can't pull yourself together for a me made outfit or are having a bad hair day, all you have to do is sweetly say to your hubby, why don't you wear your Hudsons today? Then pump your fist while their back is turned because you WIN!

So, Taco in his overalls?


Phin is his shorts?


Phin wearing his pajamas in the morning and Hudsons with hand knit socks in the afternoon while rummaging in his diaper bag and babywearing Taco - who is wearing his overalls and playing with Dijon the Giraffe - in my ring sling?

MMMay win of shut-the-front-door epic awesomeness.

And there you go. Me Made May in 5 simple steps for all my fellow cheaters. Now if you are thinking, But Clio, MMM is not about #winning. Well, then you just don't have a type A personality. Also, this post is probably not for you.

Humor aside, what I'm actually saying is that I've reached a point in my sewing where I use and wear items I've sewn or knit most days, even when I am not wearing a me made outfit. My sewn and knit garments and more just blend right into my life. For newer sewists, well, I hope you stick with sewing long enough to get to this point, too.

But also, I've always felt like MMMay is just one of those things that isn't for me. I've never needed encouragement to wear the things I make. More important, I don't sew basics or in a need-driven way, and one suggested goal of MMM is to encourage sewists to see the holes in their wardrobe and fill them. It's a worthwhile goal, but I will never do this. The last time I tried, my mojo immediately went on hiatus until I vowed that 2013 would be the year of the frosting diet and I would only sew things that are fabulous. This is probably why I am the mom on the playground wearing a silk top in the sand box and why I just can't seem to sew a sensible suit in a muted color for work. I'll wear my me made frosting, but buy the boring basics; they aren't worth my precious sewing time.

All that said, I am happy that we have things like MMMay to rally around. It's part of what makes our community a community. But don't expect me to pop up in you IG feed with the MMMay hashtag anytime soon. I'm content to be cheating from the side lines, smugly winning with little effort. Are you a cheater too? Do tell...

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

What a Great Pattern! True Bias Sutton x 2

Bonus Taco Cuteness

I'm very late to the party with the True Bias Sutton Blouse. Like the Nettie Dress, I was pregnant with Taco when it was originally released, and so it went on the "maybe sew this eventually" list. As with the Nettie, I'm so glad that "maybe eventually" arrived. I made two versions of the top which have been on my go-to outfit list for the playground recently.

Peeps, this is one terrific pattern. And I don't just mean that it has an easy fit, goes together perfectly and is a very versatile style. It is all of those things. However, what impresses me about the Sutton pattern is the thoughtfulness of its construction methods. I don't just mean that the instructions are sound and clearly written, although they are. What I mean is that each step was carefully considered and the best construction method was chosen given that the fabric recommendation is for lightweight wovens like cdc or challis - the sort of soft drapey fabrics that are prone to fraying. The net result is that the insides are perfectly finished and just as beautiful as the outside.

Bound neck and french seams on the cf and yoke

Here are the insides of my blouse. Isn't it beautiful with its french seams, bias neck finish and cleanly finished side seams and hems? These are the kind of finishing details that I generally ponder over and decide to include on my own. It was really nice for once to have it already worked out. Thank you, Kelli!

French seam back yoke and pleat

Clean finished seams, slits and hem

The Sutton is actually a bit outside my comfort zone when it comes to style. It has loads of ease. And yet, I don't feel like I am drowning in fabric. I think the soft drapey fabrics called for make this top look considerably less boxy or baggy, if you know what I mean.

"Action" shot

The first version I sewed is in Hell Gate Fabrics' cotton/lyocell georgette in cobalt (still available here). It made me very happy to support a friend (Hi Sonja!) and a fabric store that specializes in fabric that is healthier for the environment (and us, too). I was doubly happy when this fabric washed, sewed and pressed so very nicely, too. The only changes I made to the pattern are that I lowered the neckline by 1" and graded out a bit at the hip.

My two versions with beautiful necklines

My second version is in a silk habotai from my stash, originally purchased at Paron Fabrics. For this version I lowered the neckline an additional 1" (so a total of 2") and eliminated the front center seam, so that I wouldn't have to try matching the tie dye, which was uneven anyway, across the front. I used the bound V-neck instructions from The Dressmakers Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques.

Final thoughts:  Really, I think this would be a terrific sew for an advanced-beginner sewist who wants to up their game with finishes or test the waters with sewing slithery fabrics, while not having to simultaneously worry about fit. And, in the end, I love my two tops! What a great pattern! I couldn't be happier that I used "special" fabrics for them. I know some will think it is crazy that I wear silk and georgette to the playground - going down the slide or crawling after Taco. But that's just how I roll... now with a stroller.